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Drive fifteen minutes inland from the coast and Mykonos changes completely: no yachts, no boutiques, just a village square shaded by plane trees where farmers still sell cheese out of coolers on Sunday mornings. Ano Mera is the island’s second town, and its best-kept open secret.

The monastery

The reason to come is Panagia Tourliani, a 16th-century monastery whose whitewashed walls hide a carved marble bell tower and an interior of astonishing gilded woodwork. It is still a working monastery, so dress modestly and go in the morning — it usually closes for the afternoon.

Then, lunch

The tavernas around the square grill meat over charcoal for a largely local crowd, at prices that will make you double-check the menu after a week on the coast. Order slow-cooked lamb, a horiatiki and the house wine, and let the afternoon arrange itself.

Ano Mera pairs neatly with a swim at Kalafatis on the east coast, ten minutes further on. Ask the desk to arrange a car for the morning — half a day is exactly enough.