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The Cyclades should not be able to make wine at all: almost no rain, relentless wind, soil that is mostly volcanic ash and rock. The vines survive by being coiled into low baskets — kouloura — that shelter the grapes from the meltemi. Out of that struggle comes some of the most distinctive white wine in the world.

The one to know

Assyrtiko is the flagship grape: bone-dry, citrus-sharp, with a saline finish that tastes like the sea air it grew in. Santorini bottles are the famous ones, but Tinos and Paros now produce serious rivals at friendlier prices. If a label says “Aidani” or “Monemvasia”, try it — softer, floral cousins worth knowing.

At the table

The pairing rule here is happily simple: what grows together goes together. Assyrtiko with grilled fish or sea urchin, a chilled island rosé with louza and kopanisti, and a small glass of sweet Vinsanto with dessert if the evening has earned it.

Our restaurant list leans hard into the smaller Cycladic producers, and the Cycladic Wine Tasting Tour in the Activities section takes you to the source — a working vineyard, four glasses and a sunset. Book ahead in high season; the winemaker’s table seats twelve.